Cenotes Diving, Mexico

by

Jayne Szekely

Whenever we mentioned Mexico to anyone vaguely diving-related, we always had the same response; 'you MUST dive the cenotes!' So, we decided that between our week diving off Cozumel and a week spent on dry land climbing up Mayan pyramids, we should give it a go. I'm pleased we did as it was one of the most fantastic diving experiences I've had.

The cenotes are a huge system of underground caverns and caves, filled with freshwater. In diving terms, there's a huge difference between cave and cavern diving; the former requires an awful lot of specialised training, the latter can be done at our level, but the procedures followed are very rigorous. Only 4 divers to one dive guide, and the strictest dive brief I've ever been given ! OK, its simple really; don't stray from the group, don't leave the line, especially if your torch dies, and you won't end up in total blackness with no idea where you are or, more importantly, where the nearest surface (ie AIR !) is. I felt better as soon as we met our guide from the Cenotes Dive Centre in Tulum, Rob, a BSAC instructor from London, ex-wrekkie, now cave diver. He briefed us very well & I felt pretty safe with him. He also seemed pleased to have a couple of Brit BSAC folk; made a change from the usual American PADI OWs...

The first day's diving was at Dos Ojos, or 2 eyes, because there are 2 openings to explore. Turning off the main road, we rattled down a jungle track for 10-15 minutes and finally reached the car park, where we kitted up. We then walked down a series of steps to a wooden platform at the edge of the cenote where we jumped in, avoiding the swimmers & snorkellers. The water was truly crystal clear; so much so that you almost forgot you were actually diving, it was just like floating through air. Some dives skirted the edge of the cave entrance, so you could see light most of the time, but some went deeper and into total darkness. Average depth was 8-10m, though the final dive we did went to 16m, dive time on each was 40 minutes. We dived in 3mm suits, with hoods; torches were provided, gloves and knives weren't allowed.

The caves were full of stalactites; sometimes we had to go through smallish gaps, but it was such a slow pace, it was incredibly relaxing! Looking up, you could see the surface of the water in some places, like puddles, rippling. It got quite confusing as you weren't sure if you were in air looking onto a puddle of water when you were actually in water looking up to the air ... very hard to explain, even harder to get your head around when you see it ! On one dive we came up half way into a big cave where we could surface and breathe; there were bats hanging from the ceiling.

And all the time you were realising that these were caves no non-diver could see; even if they weren't underwater, how would you get through them ? We were just floating through them, not touching anything (perfect buoyancy was vital here else you'd kick up the silty bottom), it was amazing. Every now & then we turned a sharp corner & Pete got to take a pic of all of me, rather than just my bum & blue fins (we've got lots of those!). The only fish we saw were tetras, little fish that gathered around you at the end as you were getting out.

On the second day, we went to 2 different cenotes. The first, Gran Cenote, was reasonably developed, with wooden stairs down to the entry platform, and even loos in the car park ! The second, Calavera, or Temple of Doom, was a bit different. I'd read about this cenote beforehand and had a total wobbler about it, almost resulting in binning the whole cenote idea. But once there, dive guide Rob talked me into giving it a go & I am very pleased he did.

We parked at the side of the road, got kitted up, and then walked for 3-4 minutes in 33 degrees heat down a jungle path to what is basically a hole in the ground, about 9m wide, with a couple of other much smaller holes alongside. The water level was about 3m below the surface, and after a wobbly scrabble down the slope to the edge of the hole, I did the biggest giant step ever and in I went. I can honestly say that I have never experienced such a long time dropping through the air. I had time for various thoughts (not publishable here) before I hit the water. But what a relief that was ! This dive was deeper than the others, down to 16m at times, though you had no concept of depth other than ears & computer telling you.

The special thing about Calavera is the halocline, where fresh water meets salt water. Thankfully, we had been told what to expect; as you swim through this its like someone's smeared vasoline on your mask, or (for me) I've taken off my glasses. The water turns into frosted glass and soon the usual view in front of a diver, fins, and torch literally disappears before your eyes until you can just about see the light and no more. As you come out of the salt back into fresh, it happens again, and so on, through the dive. The temperature also changes, the salt water being warmer than the fresh, and your buoyancy also alters. Incredible. Especially when you are so busy watching things disappear in front of you that you suddenly shine your torch around to see that you're actually going through a very tight cave just about high enough for you not to touch the sides ...

The way out was a metal ladder up the side of the hole, which almost reached the top; there it met a dead tree stump which you had to grab & use to lever yourself up & out. Thankfully we all made it on our first attempt; as the report I had read previously had said, you would have a long time to think about what you did wrong should you lose your grip & fall all the way back down into the water !

A truly memorable experience which I recommend to anyone heading out that way !